Omega Constellation Grand Luxe (1950s) Vintage Watch

 

Omega Constellation Grand Luxe (1950s)

The top-tier Constellation — Omega’s most luxurious production watch of its era.

---

Background

Introduced in the early-to-mid 1950s, the Grand Luxe was the flagship version of the Omega Constellation line. While the regular Constellation was already a chronometer-certified luxury dress watch, the Grand Luxe went far beyond:

✔ Premium gold cases
✔ Solid gold dials
✔ Hand-finished “brick link” bracelets
✔ Highest-grade movements
✔ Often delivered in special presentation boxes

This was Omega’s answer to Patek Philippe’s Calatrava-level luxury at the time.

---

Key Features

1. Case Materials

• 18K Yellow Gold

• 18K Rose (Pink) Gold

• Rare: 18K White Gold

• A few references were also made in platinum (extremely rare).

Case Sizes

• Typically 34 mm

• Elegant lyre lugs introduced in the 1950s Constellations

---

2. The Famous “Brick” Bracelet

One of the most iconic bracelets in Omega history.

• Integrated "brick" or "riveted" style bracelet

• Made from solid 18K gold

• Manufactured by the legendary bracelet maker Gay Frères (same supplier for vintage Rolex)

• Very flexible, extremely comfortable, and luxurious

This bracelet alone can be worth more than the head of the watch.

---

3. Dial Variations

Most Grand Luxe watches feature:

✔ Solid 18K gold dials

✔ Hand-applied diamond-shaped hour markers

✔ Crosshair design (common but not universal)

✔ Pie-pan dial (most famous and collectible)

Omega sometimes used onyx inlaid hour markers, which are especially prized.

Colors:

• Gold (matching case)

• Champagne

• Silvered gold

• Rare: textured or linen-patterned gold dials

Because the dial is solid gold, genuine ones have a very soft, warm sheen.

---

Reference Numbers (Most Common)

Ref. 2930 & 2931

• Early to mid-1950s

• Pie-pan dials

• Iconic Grand Luxe configuration

Ref. 168.010 / 368.085 (Later Models)

• Smooth dial (non–pie-pan)

• Late '50s into early '60s

• Often found with gold “coffin link” bracelets

---

Movements

The Grand Luxe carries Omega’s top movement grades:

Caliber 354 (early bumper automatic)

• 1952–1955

• Bumper rotor that oscillates ~240 degrees

Caliber 501 / 505 (full rotor automatics)

• 1955–1958

• Chronometer-certified

• High accuracy, smooth, refined

Caliber 551 (later models)

• Considered one of Omega’s greatest movements

• Full-rotor, no date

• Ultra-precise, beautifully finished

• Used in some late 1950s / early 1960s Grand Luxe models

These movements were often adjusted in 5 positions, chronometer tested, and were the highest grade Omega offered.

---

Build Quality

The Grand Luxe was:

• Omega’s most precisely finished casework of the time

• One of the highest-quality bracelets ever produced

• One of the few watches where case, dial, hands, hour markers, and bracelet could all be solid 18K gold

• Often sold only at Omega’s most elite boutiques

---

Packaging

A true luxury experience:

• Polished hardwood or leather presentation box

• Gold foil certificates

• Chronometer rating documentation

• Many vintage boxes today sell for $500–$2,000 by themselves

•